After reading the book, you'll be able to create your own training programs.Īlthough the book is focused on alpine climbing, the basic sports training information it contains is applicable to any sport. There are example routines and logs presented in the book, but these are meant as guides. This is not a book full of training "recipes". If you want an easily digestible explanation of performance-centered physical training, this is a good book. I've read the book and have reread some chapters more than once. That's because the books, while great books, were aimed at coaches and trainers, never at me, the person being trained. I've tried to read other sports training books and I've never completed one. the only book on sports training that I've managed to finish. This is highly subjective and mostly non-scientific, but I think this subject is so vast that it could've been it's own bookīest book on sports training that I've ever read- ahem. ~ decent recommendations of how to toughen the mental aspect of climbing. + dealing with altitude: the sample size is small, but the recommendations I found to be sound, based on my limited experience Especially given that flexibility is important while rock/ice/alpine climbing, I find this is to be a big gap in the book The book mentions flexibility as being important several times, but doesn't cover that area at all. The book has a lot of "sample size of 1" recommendations, which is usually not what you should follow nutrition was basic, was expecting much more detailed information about nutrition while training and nutrition at altitude. The running community has a much deeper understanding of how to correctly train for running, and those are better than the basics recommended in the book ~ meh recommendations for running exercises. Overall there are better exercises than the ones given in the book, just ask PTs at the gym, they should have a better understanding of how you should train for whatever your goals may be Some of the recommended exercises are not recommended in gyms because they can cause injuries and are not good iatefficiently stimulating muscles. + good mountain-specific exercise recommendations that can be done at home/gym/flat + really good explanation of the muscles involved in different exercises and how to correctly train them + really good explanation of what the body goes through while climbing/hiking/exercising This book is really good to start mountain training planning, but I wouldn't follow the recommendations for exercises that are not mountain specific: Filled with photos, graphs, and illustrations. Chapters are augmented with inspiring essays by world-renowned climbers, including Ueli Steck, Mark Twight, Peter Habeler, Voytek Kurtyka, and Will Gadd. Chapters cover endurance and strength training theory and methodology, application and planning, nutrition, altitude, mental fitness, and assessing your goals and your strengths. Whether you work as a banker or a mountain guide, live in the city or the country, are an ice climber, a mountaineer heading to Denali, or a veteran of 8,000-meter peaks, your understanding of how to achieve your goals grows exponentially as you work with this book. They deliver detailed instruction on how to plan and execute training tailored to your individual circumstances. Applying training practices from other endurance sports, House and Johnston demonstrate that following a carefully designed regimen is as effective for alpinism as it is for any other endurance sport and leads to better performance. National Champions and World Cup Nordic Skiers, translate training theory into practice to allow you to coach yourself to any mountaineering goal. In Training for the New Alpinism, Steve House, world-class climber and Patagonia ambassador, and Scott Johnston, coach of U.S.
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